Saturday, October 13, 2012

Mountain people: The Bataks of Palawan

PALAWAN, Philippines (UPDATED) — If you're looking for something offbeat to include in your Puerto Princesa itinerary, try spending a few hours with the Batak tribe in Kalakwasan in Sitio Tanabag. Learn about their lives, practices, and how you can be of help.

The Batak people used to wear these colorful costumes.

From what I read, the word “Batak” in Cuyonon means “mountain people.” While the Batak’s origins haven’t been determined, it’s inferred that they are of Aeta descent because of their physical attributes — dark skin, kinky hair, and small but well-defined bodies.

The Batak is the smallest among the different tribes in Palawan. In the early 1900s, there were around 600 of them. During the 70s, there were almost 400 of them. With just 49 families left – that’s more or less 300 people – they’re slowly disappearing.

Read more about the History and Origin of the Bataks!
Click to enlarge. It's hi-res!

It takes around 4 hours to reach the Bataks from Rizal Avenue in Puerto Princesa City. The trip involves crossing 12 rivers over a two-hour trek. For more details, click here.

Sometimes, the rivers were deep and currents were really strong!

In general, the Bataks are an introverted bunch. Even among themselves, they're pretty quiet – not unless the boys are playing basketball.

The Batak boys just love to play basketball.

Another interesting thing about the Bataks is that many women are topless.

Traditionally, Batak women do not cover their upper torso.

Here are a few people I saw and talked to:

Batak chieftain During Villanueva greets visitors upon arrival.
As a way of showing courtesy and respect, visitors give food items for the tribe.

Mother and child

Removing lice from each other's hair seems like a fun pastime!

Reddish teeth from chewing nganga (betel nut).

Gilbert, 10, loves to play basketball. He also likes girls with straight hair.
One of his dreams is to study.

The super pretty Gay-gay, 18, with her 4-month-old baby

Marcelito Dancil is the Kapitan of Sitio Tanabag.
The Batak members contact him if they need to be hospitalized. 

The Bataks seldom go down the mountains. Some go to town twice a week; others once a month. Some even less – if not to buy non-perishable food or what-not, it’s to perform traditional dances for tourists.

There, I learned about some of their problems:
  1. Lack of a steady source of income
  2. Health - LBM and malnutrition
  3. Education - Poor literacy rate
  4. Lack of a permanent teacher for schooling and farming
Off to sell wood.
Lack of a steady income is a problem for the Batak.

How do they earn money? 
The average family earns around P5,000 a month. This depends on the season and weather conditions. The male’s sources of income include selling rattan wood, honey, or almaciga sap.

Sap from the almaciga tree is sold, which will be used for varnish.
(Photo from ecop.pbworks.com)

Tirso, 29, has three kids. He earns around Php 2,000 a month selling almaciga sap for Php 14 per kilogram.
Because of the strong rains that make rivers impassable, he hasn't earned anything in 2 months.

Women earn money through handicrafts they make: woven items, flower pots, or beaded necklaces. Despite the excellent quality, they don’t have regular buyers.

If only they had a steady source of income, they said.

Making beaded necklaces

I love some of the stuff the tribe members sold!
Wooden Top (Php 30); Bark (Php 50); Basket (Php 60); Necklace (Php 100) 

See what artists can do with the tree bark here!

What do they eat?
They usually eat rice that they’ve harvested (or sometimes the ones bought from town), kamoteng kahoy (cassava), and native plants. Sometimes, they hunt for the occasional baboy damo (wild pig) or flying squirrel. When we were there, the Batak ate pancit bihon prepared by an NGO.

Pancit Bihon was served for lunch that day by an NGO

Health problems
While the Bataks still practice traditional herbal medicine, the help of Western medicine is sometimes needed to prevent death – most especially for LBM and malnutrition. While health is gradually improving as missionaries have started helping, doctors and medicine are still needed.

We met the oldest member of the Bataks, who happens to be the quack doctor. He mentioned the different herbs used to heal the common cold or fever.

75-year-old Rogelio Sibido is the Batak tribe's babaylan (quack doctor). 

Of childbirth, he boasts of balingasag na balat that women drink  to lessen the bleeding. He proudly shares that nothing tears in the process and that stitches aren’t required!

My new friends from Palawan State University interviewing the quack doctor for their thesis on alternative medicine. 

Education
The highest education level attained by a Batak is Grade 6.

With the help of NGOs like Heaven’s Eyes and through their Alternative Learning System (ALS), they hope that the literacy of the Batak children will slowly improve and will be at par with lowlanders.

Hopefully, through the Alternative Learning System (ALS), these children will be at par with the lowlanders!

According to Bing Pedolin, a partner of Heaven’s Eyes, they are in the process of building a school where individual tutorials in Filipino, English and reading will be conducted. She mentioned that 3 full-time Filipino teachers will be staying with the Bataks.

Foundations of the new school to help raise the literacy level of the Batak children.

Bing Pedolin, one of the community volunteers, amuse the kids with her iPad.

It was mentioned that the lack of a permanent teacher was a problem. According to our guide, this not only applied to schooling but farming as well. Apparently, the Batak need to be guided and supervised to make sure they're doing everything correctly.

Meeting after lunch with the NGO

Despite the presence of missionaries and NGOs, the Batak tribe is still in need of help.

How can you help? 
  • If you're up to it, immerse yourself in the community! Stay for the afternoon or a few days! 
  • Donate vitamins and medicine, especially for LBM and fever.
  • If you want, bring non-perishable food items like uncooked rice, noodles, or coffee.
  • Donate children's books for the new school being built!
  • Be a volunteer teacher or doctor!
  • Find organizations that can source materials from the Batak! 
  • Scout for other NGOs that can help.
  • Donate money to organizations that are currently helping like Heaven’s Eyes.
  • Share their stories.
Tell their story.
Help the Batak community by volunteering, donating, and sharing the story of their plight

There was just so little time for me there. I wanted to talk to so many more people and there were so many issues I wanted to learn about:
  • The Batak’s concept of love, courtship, and relationships. Is it true that parents can buy a wife for their sons? Is it true that virgins are of smaller value? 
  • High ranking Batak's abuse of power in the past. Is it true that a past chieftain used religion to get women to sleep with him? 
  • Ang hindi marunong magsinungaling, gutom.” (Hungry are those who don’t know how to lie.) Is there truth to this?
Such juicy topics! Will you find these out for me? Pretty please?

Finally, I'd like to share something that I came across in the Batak Visitor Center. It's the code of conduct for visiting ethnic villages. I think that all visitors should read these friendly reminders before spending time with indigenous people.  

For our 5D/4N itinerary, click here!

PS. I'd like to thank Rappler for editing and sharing this article. Look here!

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